Friday October 20, 2017

Empowering men; Suits as modern symbols of power and sex

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Written by Sarthak Kaul

When anyone happens to mention suits, most of us go in a tizzy and start picturing dashing, high powered business men, Wall Street stock traders, lawyers, bankers and other high level corporate executives. Oh and yes, James Bond with his Vodka Martinis and Aston Martins. These influential and powerful people never cease from fascinating us as they go about swaggering in those well-built, deftly cut contour like it’s just another day in the park for them.

Dabbling with suits

Suits have always been the symbol for class and privilege and most men want to embody what they represent- grace and aplomb. Most people in India wear suits occasionally, usually for formal occasions such as weddings. It’s merely a costume to sometimes blend into social gatherings and formal environments. Some like to splurge on style and extravagance and are more brand driven. But does an average Indian really understand the serious business of cloth, fabric and craft?

Perhaps, it’s because earlier generations either had their suits stitched by tailors by the streets or picked them up on an odd trip abroad.

In the west, youngsters feel no shame in adorning suits which have passed on by their fathers and grandfathers before them.

Saville Row and the tradition

It is for the same reason that places like Britain’s Saville Row have had such a strong cultural and traditional impact on generations of men donning classic suits. Saville Row is a street in Mayfair, central London which is primarily known for harboring some of the world’s best tailors, carrying the bastion of exquisite suit making, the pinnacle of true, inimitable British fashion.

When a customer picks a cloth for his suit, it is said to “be bespoken for” by him and will be tailored perfectly to his specifications and needs. He will be measured, go through several fittings and after months he will get to wear the suit and experience the luxury. What separates a suit cut in Saville Row and a tailored suit in a place like India is the level of detail, a choice from around 2,000 fabrics which takes about 50 hours of work. The resultant suits exhibit the signature British style. The jackets will have double vents, some will be soft while some will be structured, it will come with working cuffs and a full floating canvas.

The British wear their suits close to the body, but not extra slim like the Italians and not cushy, sack-like like the Americans. But like most precious items available to man, it won’t come cheap and only a short percentage of men in the world can afford it. A fully hand-made two piece suit from Saville Row will cost at least a couple of thousand pounds.

Suits in the times of Mass Culture

But with changing times Saville Row has had to make altercations, with old houses such as Huntsman and Grieves and Hawkes now selling ready-to-wear suits, while trying to retain the core bespoke tailoring techniques which they are famous for.

High street chains like Next and Marks and Spencer are selling a pair of jacket and trousers as low as 100 pound with increasing clientele from overseas having budget and time constraints. On the European front there is Canali, the eponymous suit brand from Milan dealing in old-style Italian outfitters who are still focusing majorly in traditional western wear. The company has over 200 boutiques in about 100 countries worldwide. In a world where men are forgetting about construction and craftsmanship, every Canali suit is still made in Italy in one of its seven manufacturing operations.

The art of the craft

The level of human intervention and the pride with which its tailors take their job is spellbinding. What Canali focuses more is on its construction- there are two distinct methods of making jackets. The first is called fusing. Another option is made to measure which is different from a bespoken suit. With a bespoken suit, a pattern is cut expressly for the user. Made to measure takes into account your shoulder posture, your arm length, width of your stomach, your frame and other physiological specifications. Most international brands are catering to this service.
With Canali you can be measured in Delhi, London or Hong Kong but the suit will be still made in Italy and delivered to you in India. It costs a bit more than ready made but will still be more economically viable than a lot of ready-made fused suits you will find in DLF Emporio.

“A sleek, well-cut suit can turn every man into the ideal man: serious, powerful, physically charismatic,” Esquire wrote in The Handbook of Style. “The modern suit has been about two things: power and sex.”

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‘I think Idris Elba should be the next James Bond’, Says George Clooney

Filmmaker George Clooney thinks actor Idris Elba is elegant and handsome and masculine- a perfect choice to play James Bond

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James Bond
Who would you like to see as the next James Bond? Filmmaker George Clooney believes actor Idris Elba would be perfect for the role. Pixabay

Los Angeles, September 11, 2017 : Filmmaker George Clooney says actor Idris Elba, who was earlier being eyed as the new James Bond, would have been a perfect choice to play the popular British spy.

Actor Daniel Craig will return as James Bond in the upcoming 25th film in the popular franchise.

“I think Idris Elba should be the next James Bond,” Clooney told variety.com.

“I think it’s insane that you wouldn’t. He’s elegant and handsome and masculine. He would be a perfect James Bond and it would be a great step forward,” he added.

On the personal front, Clooney welcomed twins — Alexander and Ella — three months ago with wife and human rights lawyer Amal.

Asked whether parenthood has changed him, Clooney said: “Well, it’s a funny thing. In general when you talk to somebody who is in the film industry, we can impart some unique experiences. Me talking about being a parent, everyone I know goes through it. And they are all the exact same experiences.”

He added: “It’s (being) up all night at weird hours. It’s changing diapers. It’s being shocked at what you see inside a diaper for the amount they take in and the amount they put out; you go, ‘How is that possible?'” (IANS)

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James Bond is not going to get job as British Spy, says Head of External Intelligence Agency Alex Younger

In contrast to James Bond, MI6 officers are not for taking moral shortcut, says Alex Younger

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Actor Daniel Craig, Flickr

October 28, 2016: James Bond is not going to get a job as a British spy, stated the head of the external intelligence agency, MI6; in spite of his unrivalled and unmatched record of saving the world from disasters single-handedly while seducing gorgeous women at the same time!

NewsGram brings to you current foreign news from all over the world.

According to Reuters, Alex Younger claimed that actual spies have to deal with both physical and complex moral challenges in the most forbidding environments and uncomfortable situations on Earth; something that Bond cannot manage, lacking a code of strong ethics.

In an interview that was published on ‘Black history Month’, a website that dedicates itself to the grand annual celebration of Britain’s black culture and its heritage, Young stated, “in contrast to James Bond, MI6 officers are not for taking moral shortcut.”

NewsGram brings to you top news around the world today.

“It’s safe to say that James Bond wouldn’t get through our recruitment process,” he further added.

He said that the real MI6 spooks shared some qualities with Bond, like his tenacity and energy, patriotism and they also needed some additional values and qualities not portrayed by the hero of ‘Goldfinger’, ‘From Russia with Love’, ‘Dr. No’ and the more recent ‘Skyfall’ or ‘Spectre,’ quoted Reuters report.

Check out NewsGram for latest international news updates.

“An intelligence officer in the real MI6 has a high degree of emotional intelligence, values teamwork and always has respect for the law, unlike Mr. Bond.”

– prepared by Antara Kumar of NewsGram. Twitter: @ElaanaC

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Why future projections for Apple are gloomy even after 38 per cent rise in profits

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San Francisco:  Apple announced on Tuesday its profits rose 38 percent in the second quarter due to a surge in iPhone sales.

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However, Apple’s Chief Executive Tim Cook expressed concerns over the rising competition. “The gap is widening between us and our competitors,” Tim Cook said in an interview with the newspaper, the Wall Street Journal.

Headquartered in Cupertino, California, the company earned $10.7 billion during this period, its fiscal third quarter, compared to $7.74 billion in the same quarter of 2014, equivalent to earnings of $1.85 per share, reported EFE.

It sold 47.4 million iPhones in the second quarter, 35 percent more than the same period last year and more than double from four years ago. iPhone sales in China too, more than doubled to $13.2 billion.

In total, iPhone sales contributed $31.4 billion, a 59 percent rise over last year, owing to an average $100 increase in their prices.

Apple Watch concerns?

The company did not share information on the sales of the Apple Watch, which they recently began to sell, although Cook said it exceeded internal expectations.

The gross margin of the company’s profit was 39.7 percent, as opposed to the expected 38.5 percent to 39.5 percent.

Apple shares, however, fell 6.7 percent in after-hours trading at Wall Street, owing to what analysts called gloomy projections for coming months.

The company forecast revenue of $49 billion for the third quarter ending in September, against analysts’ expectations of $51.13 billion.